Venice Mini-Guide

travel guides

26 Mar

Some of my favourite things in Venice.

Walk And Get Lost to Slow Down In Venice’s SEstieri

Venice is a super walkable city, even though you will get lost and end up at dead ends facing canals big and small. You will be fine as soon as you are willing to embrace that getting from A to B in Venice means many detours. I particularly love getting lost in Dorsoduro, Castello and Cannaregio, areas that are much calmer than touristy San Marco.

In Cannaregio, you might be lucky and find perfect solitude. You will also get a glimpse into the everyday life of the residents of Venice. The neighbourhood feels airy with its wide pavements and straight canals compared to Dorsoduro, which presents itself as a labyrinth of tiny alleyways and canals between Canale Grande and the Zattere promenade. Especially here, when roaming the alleyways and crossing small bridges, you should adhere to Venice's unwritten pedestrian rules: stick to the right-hand side and don't block the way for others. Dorsuduro was once home to Venice's shipyards. Even today, you will still come across a few active boatyards specialising in building and repairing gondolas, like Squero Domenico Tramontin e Figli. Castello, the largest of the 'sestieri', is home to the Biennale but has much more to offer aside from the Giardini and Arsenale. Via Guiseppe Garibaldi, which leads right through the neighbourhood and is flanked by many bars and restaurants, feels like the neighbourhood's main artery. For romantic vistas of laundry hung up to dry across the canals and small urban gardens, dip in and out of the surrounding alleys.

Take the Vaporetto to Rest Your Legs

Taking the Vaporetto might not make you reach your destination faster than walking. But it will give you a welcome opportunity to rest your legs—if you get one of the coveted front seats. Also, the journey along Canale Grande offers some great views of Venice and its most famous sights, like the Rialto Bridge and some of the city's finest Palazzi. It's one of my favourite vantage points for taking pictures in the city.

Explore some hidden and not-so-hidden corners Of Venice

The city is relatively small, but Venice has so much to see. So, no matter how many days you have planned for your trip, you will leave feeling you need to see more of it. Also, as mentioned above, you will have been busy getting lost and enjoying the views from the Vaporetto. But there are some things you shouldn't miss:

Let's start with the most popular sight: Piazza San Marco. Yes, it's touristy and crowded, but the architecture here is worth it, and it is an excellent place for people-watching. Try to go here in the morning, even though the light is most stunning in the evenings. If you are there, swing by the Olivetti showroom designed by Carlo Scarpa. For a little break, head to the nearby Giardini Reali, a green oasis and a gem hidden in plain sight.

To see more of Scarpa's work and dive into life in Venice's palazzi, the Fondazione Querini Stampalia is a good destination. Here, you can marvel at Venetian art and modern architectural interventions by Carlo Scarpa and Mario Botta. However, I found the most beautiful palazzo inside and out to be Ca d'Oro, home to the Galleria Giorgio Franchetti, the art collection of the palazzo's last owner. The ground floor, with its Cosmatesque stonework, is a marvel! Across the canal from Ca d'Oro lies the Mercato di Rialto, Venice's historic market, where chefs, residents, tourists and seagulls roam the fish and vegetable stalls from 7 a.m. to noon on Tuesdays through Sundays.

Eat all the food, drink all the wine

In Venice, you will find various restaurants, good and bad, as well as touristy and local. I would need to spend more time in the city to give you a proper list of places to eat – and maybe you should consult other travel guides for this. But here are three things you shouldn't miss: Breakfast at Pasticceria Tonolo. Just order some coffee and pastry and quickly devour both, standing at the counter like the locals. Wine and Cicchetti at Vino Vero, a wine bar located on one of the broader pavements in Cannaregio—but be aware of the seagulls! Dinner at La Bitta, the most charming small restaurant in Dorsoduro. The service is most endearing and attentive. The food was delicious, and I found the whole atmosphere perfect. Call beforehand to make a reservation since the place is tiny and quite popular.

Stay at a Former Palazzo in Venice

The last time I visited Venice, I stayed at Il Palazzo Experimental in Dorsoduro. We had a beautiful room with large windows looking out onto the water and the island of Guidecca. It was the perfect place to be, and every morning, I would get up, open the window and watch Venice wake up. Skip the breakfast at the hotel, though, and have a coffee and a pasty at Al Chioscetto just outside the hotel instead.