Copenhagen City Guide

travel guides

27 Feb

Impeccable design and architecture, a vibrant outdoor culture, topped off with amicable, cheerful people who are well dressed without trying too hard, good food and great coffee everywhere. It's easy to fall in love with Copenhagen. I've yet to meet anyone returning from the Danish capital without wanting to return immediately or move there. I felt the same after a solo trip to Copenhagen in April 2023. Find some places I discovered during the trip in this Copenhagen City Guide. I also added some bucket list items — yes, I desperately want to go back.

Copenhagen’s landmark, the Little Mermaid at Langelinie Pier. Together with Nyhaven, with its colourful houses, this is one of the most crowded and touristy spots in Copenhagen.

The royal guards outside Amalienborg, the official residence of the Danish royal family.

the basics

Where to Stay in Copenhagen

Copenhagen's hospitality scene demonstrates how design and functionality can be perfectly combined. Villa Copenhagen, near the central station, transforms the grandeur of the city's former postal headquarters into a luxury stay complete with a heated rooftop pool. In the new district of Nordhavn, Audo Residence offers ten rooms designed by Norm Architects in collaboration with the design brand Audo Copenhagen. Hotel Sander, tucked discreetly behind the Royal Danish Theatre, creates a luxurious and inviting space. Hotel Ottilia occupies two former brewery buildings in Carlsberg Byen, combining original features like the former grain silos with contemporary Scandinavian design. Meanwhile, Hotel Danmark juxtaposes 18th-century aesthetics and 1960s architecture in the centre of Copenhagen. Lastly, the floating Hotel CPH LIVING offers rooms aboard a converted German barge for those seeking a more unconventional stay.

How to Get Around Copenhagen

Navigating Copenhagen, with its extensive network of bicycle lanes, efficient public transportation, and pedestrian-friendly streets, is effortless. You can smoothly explore the city on foot or rent bikes to move from A to B. The metro, buses, and trains connect the city centre with outlying areas of Copenhagen, making day trips to places like the Lousiana Museum of Modern Art in Humlebæk convenient. Even Malmö is easily reachable by train via the Öresundbridge. I found the "DOT Billetter" app convenient for buying tickets on the go when I needed them. You will also find ticket machines at train and metro stations.

Copenhagen Neighbourhoods

Indre By is the city's historic heart and home to iconic sights such as Nyhavn and Amalienborg and Copenhagen's main shopping street, Strøget. While it might feel like a vast open-air museum, it still holds a certain charm and offers quite a few good places to visit, like Kunsthal Charlottenborg or New Mags.

Vesterbro is a former working-class neighbourhood that plays a central role in Tove Ditlevsen's Copenhagen Trilogy – a really good book to take along on your trip to Copenhagen. Today, Vesterbro is a hip neighbourhood with many restaurants, bars and clubs around Enghave Plads, on Istedgade and in the Meatpacking District.

Frederiksberg, with its tree-lined boulevards and sidewalk cafes, is often likened to Paris. Many Scandinavian brands, from Gianni to Wood Wood, have shops here, making it a great spot for shopping. Frederiksberg Have is an extensive park including lakes, waterways and a colony of Herons that is just perfect for a stroll or a summer picnic.

Nørrebro is an ethnically diverse neighbourhood that has a vibrant food scene and is home to artisanal breweries and speciality coffee shops. Here, you can find several open spaces where Copenhageners like to hang out in the summer, like Assistens Cemetery, Superkilen Park and The Lakes.

Explore Copenhagen

Museums, Architecture, Botany & a Beach in and Around Copenhagen

Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek

Established in 1888 by Carl Jacobsen, the brewery magnate and an avid art collector, the Ny Carlsberg Glyptothek is home to more than 10'000 artworks. The museum's rich collection spans from antique sculptures to Danish Golden Age masterpieces and French Impressionism – including masterpieces by Rodin and Matisse. However, the Glyptotek's most stunning feature is its leafy Winter Garden. Also, take advantage of a visit to the rooftop for a panoramic view of Copenhagen and the neighbouring Tivoli.

New Carlsberg Glyptothek
Dantes Plads 7
1556 Copenhagen

Botanical Garden of Copenhagen

In the heart of Copenhagen, the Botanical Garden bears testament to centuries of botanical curiosity and conservation. Central to the garden is the Palm House, an architectural gem of the late 19th century. Inside, palm trees extend all the way up to the glass ceiling, contrasting with the Victorian ironwork encasing them. Steep iron staircases lead to a raised walkway, offering alternative views of the collection of exotic plants. Additional greenhouses surround the Palm House, most notably the butterfly house, where visitors can encounter all kinds of colourful butterflies. If I lived in Copenhagen, this would be a place I'd go to regularly.

Botanical Garden
Gothersgade 128
1123 Copenhagen

Kunsthal Charlottenborg

Tucked away in a backyard just a short stride from the scenic Nyhavn, with its picture-perfect colourful townhouses, Kunsthal Charlottenborg is Copenhagen's epicentre for contemporary art. Founded in 1883, the institution has a rich heritage and positions itself at the cutting edge of the art scene, offering a platform for Danish and international artists like Fischli und Weiss, Yoko Ono or Wolfgang Tilmanns to showcase their work. But more interestingly, Kunsthal Charlottenborg hosts the annual exhibition of the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts' Schools of Visual Arts and an annual Spring Exhibition showcasing talents from the Nordic region and beyond.

Kunsthal Charlottenborg
Nyhavn 2
1051 Copenhagen

SMK – Statens Museum for Kunst

Denmark's premier art museum, the Statens Museum for Kunst, holds an impressive collection of European masterpieces from the 14th to the 20th century. The museum's extensive collection of Danish art offers an opportunity to explore the depth of Danish artistic evolution – from the serene landscapes of the Danish Golden Age to expressions of contemporary Danish art. It's the perfect place to stroll on a rainy day.

Statens Museum for Kunst
Sølvgade 48-50
1307 Copenhagen

Lousiana Museum of Modern Art

Located a short train ride outside of Copenhagen in Humlebæck, right on the shores of the Öresund, the Lousiana Museum of Modern Art is more than an art museum. It's a destination of tranquillity where art, architecture and the natural landscape become one. My favourite feature of Louisiana was the vast sculpture park featuring works by artists like Jean Arp and Henry Moore.

Louisiana Museum of Modern Art
Gl. Strandvej 13
3050 Humlebæk

Finn Juhl’S House

In Ordrup, another town outside of Copenhagen, Finn Juhl's House serves as a living museum showcasing the innovative approach of the Danish architect and designer Finn Juhl. The house is part of the Ordrupgaard Museum, where you can find a collection of Danish and French art from the 19th and early 20th centuries by artists such as Monet, Gaugin, Hammershøi and Wilhelm Lundstrøm.

Ordrupgaard
Vilvordevej 110
2920 Charlottenlund

Bellevue Beach Klampenborg

The area around Bellevue Beach, located in Klampenborg, just north of Copenhagen, Denmark, is a prime example of modernist design and architecture by the renowned Danish architect Arne Jacobsen. Designed in the 1930s, Bellevue Beach showcases Jacobsen's minimalist style and his penchant for functionalism. It is also an excellent place for a short walk along the beach – or venture all the way to Skovshoved, where the architect designed a petrol station.

Bellevue Beach
Strandvejen 340
2930 Klampenborg

Museums & galleries on My Bucket List

Kunsthal Charlottenborg is part of the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts.

The seating area in the master bedroom of Finn Juhl’s House in Ordrup. Find more pictures from my visit in this blog post.

Among the most iconic features of Bellevue Beach are the blue and white lifeguard towers designed by Arne Jacobsen.

Coffee Culture in Copenhagen

Always Order a PAstry With Your Coffee

Brød

Bageriet Brød quickly turned into a daily ritual for me. The Wienerbrød here is delicious and their sourdough Rye is impeccable. As it stays fresh for quite a while, it is a great souvenir to bring home from your trip. The bakery is located right on Enghave Plads, so I liked to pick up coffee and a pastry to sit down on one of the many benches and observe the daily rhythms of Vesterbro life.

Bageriet Brød
Enghave Pl. 7
1670 Copenhagen

Coffee Collective Carlsberg Byen

At the different branches of The Coffee Collective, they brew speciality coffee from beans sourced directly and ethically. The one in Carlsberg Byen, a new neighbourhood in development on the former grounds of the Carlsberg Brewery, is an airy shop with a minimalist flair. It's a great place to sit down with a book or meet with friends and enjoy some coffee and a pastry from Collective Bakery.

The Coffee Collective
Fadet 8
1799 Copenhagen

Hart Bageri

Founded by Richard Hard, an alumnus of the renowned Noma, some media outlets herald Hart Bageri as one of the world's premier bakeries. Subsequently, lines at their seven stores across Copenhagen can get long, but their baked goods are worth waiting for. While I cannot attest to any superlatives, the pastry I tried was delicious.

Hart Bageri Frederiksberg
Gammel Kongevej 109
1850 Frederiksberg

Andersen & Maillard

The Andersen & Maillard branch in Nørrebro welcomes you with the smell of fresh coffee, the golden, flaky croissants, and other mouth-watering pastries in the display case. The place also offers a cosy environment for work or reading a book.

Andersen & Maillard
Nørrebrogade 62
2200 Copenhagen

Food & Drink in Copenhagen

From Burgers and Beer to Whipped Butter on Rye

Gasoline Grill Værnedamsvej

There are several branches of Gasoline Grill in Copenhagen; the first one that opened is located in a former gas station and gave the franchise its name. The branch on Værnedamsvej is a minimalist venue designed by Studio David Thulstrup – who also designed the interior at NOMA – with a long counter, an open kitchen and a glass-walled meat grinding room. The burgers here are impeccable and taste super fresh. All the ingredients are organic. Their sought-after burgers are only available until sold out to ensure zero waste.

Gasoline Grill Værnedamsvej
Værnedamsvej 2
1619 Copenhagen

CIRCOLO

Circolo in Fredriksberg offers Tuscan cuisine made with local ingredients from Denmark. The pasta is handmade, and the meat and seafood are grilled on charcoal. Patrons can order a menu or dine à la carte. The highlight on the menu is the Costata, a 1.3kg grilled steak. Their wine list is extensive, with many biodynamic options. It's also an excellent place for dining alone as they offer seats at the bar with a direct view into the kitchen that I enjoyed very much, like a less stressful and more friendly live episode of "The Bear".

Circolo
Gl. Kongevej 74D
1850 Fredriksberg

La Neta

La Neta, a traditional taqueria with two locations in Vesterbro and Nørrebro, offers street-style tacos with five different fillings and another Mexican fare alongside craft beers from Mikkeller Brewery to complement the rich flavours of the dishes. I found this a nice, no-frills place for a simple dinner.

La Neta Vesterbro
Istedgade 88
1650 Copenhagen

Appolo Bar

Frederik Bille Brahe's Apollo Bar is in the courtyard outside Kunsthal Charlottenborg. Inside, you sit amongst plaster-cast statues and other artworks; outside, you can enjoy the courtyard if the weather allows. Dishes range from simple smoked salmon with dill and capers on the lunch menu to more elaborate fare like lion's mane steak or pumpkin fondue for dinner. Make sure you order some sourdough bread and whipped butter, too.

Apollo Bar
Nyhavn 2
1051 Copenhagen

studio x kitchen

Great for breakfast or lunch, Studio X Kitchen near Kongens Have serves food made from seasonal and local ingredients. Their most popular dishes are the folded eggs that can be ordered with different toppings and sides; I seriously enjoyed the ones with anchovies and pickles. Other items on the menu include porridge and homemade granola.

Studio X Kitchen
Dronningens Tværgade 52
1302 Copenhagen

BRUS

Founded by the people behind To Øl, a craft brewery from Copenhagen, BRUS is a brewery bar and restaurant in a former iron foundry and locomotive factory in Nørrebro. Various beers from the brand are brewed onsite and are offered on tap. Well-crafted dishes from BRUS Foodbar complement the beer selection. I found the beef tartare, the fried Padron peppers and the fermented fries delicious. A bottle shop offers cans and bottles from To Øl and guest breweries.

BRUS
Guldbergsgade 29
2200 Copenhagen

Enghave Plads 9

Right on Enghave Plads, this takeaway bar offers natural wine, beer on tap, cider and snacks to pick up and enjoy sitting on the square. I encountered Enghave Plads 9 on my first day in Copenhagen when I left the subway station and was greeted with happy faces enjoying beers in the sun. I felt right at home.

Enghave Plads 9
Enghave Pl. 9
1670 Copenhagen

Mikkeller Bar Viktoriagade

This modest cellar bar is the site of the very first Mikkeller Bar and became the blueprint for multiple locations by the brand. The tap list focuses on Mikkeller beers, and the kitchen serves small dishes like cheese or sausages.

Mikkeller Bar
Viktoriagade 8 B-C
1655 Copenhagen

Copenhagen Restaurants on my Bucket List

Shopping in Copenhagen

Bring a Large Suitcase for all the Souvenirs

Værnedamsvej and Tullinsgade

A micro-neighbourhood in the middle of Copenhagen, the Værenedamsvej and Tullinsgade offer speciality stores, cafés, wine bars, and an even more friendly and open atmosphere than the rest of Copenhagen, especially on the weekends. Seek out the independent bookstore Thiemers Magasin and browse through Vila Vintage, Dora, or Blomsterskuret, a beautiful flower shop.

Værenedamsvej and Tullinsgade
1819 Fredriksberg

Dansk Made for Rooms

Danks Made for Rooms on Istedgade sells a carefully curated selection of designer furniture and objects, from kitchenware to shelving units. Be careful, you might wish for a bigger suitcase to bring everything back home.

Danks Made for Rooms
Istedgade 80
1650 Copenhagen

New Mags

New Mags is an iconic destination for coffee table books and magazines designed by Norm Copenhagen. The store is so beautiful I was tempted to move in.

New Mags
Ny Østergade 28
1101 Copenhagen

Gammel Kongevej

One of Copenhagen's longest streets, Gammel Kongevej offers a large array of restaurants, cafés and boutiques. I spotted several interesting vintage stores selling clothes and interior pieces, from luxury second-hand stores I Blame LULU and Paloma Vintage to the most gorgeous and intriguing furniture shop, Hvornum.

Frama Studio Store

The studio store of the interior brand Frama is located in a 19th-century pharmacy, St. Paul's Apotek. The original fittings from the cabinets to the painted ceilings remain intact, making the store a destination in its own right. The store showcases a selection of the brand's designs, from furniture to homeware, and the brand's own self-care products named after the old pharmacy.