A Day trip to La Graciosa
As we reach the small island of La Graciosa, I notice a group of elderly men standing and floating in the shallow water. Their laughter cuts through the air; you can hear it over the rattle of the ship's engine as we dock. I make them out to be locals taking a quick dip in the sea for refreshment. There are only a few tourists on the island, apart from day trippers like us who came by boat from Lanzarote. The trip from Órzola, a small village on the northern tip of Lanzarote, is short. On the way through the small strait that separates the islands, we enjoy the unique view of the dark rocks of the Famara cliffs. With narrowed eyes, I try to spot the Mirador del Rio, a viewpoint designed by César Manrique, which we visited a few days ago. But the building and its large glass front are well hidden between the rocks.
The view of the Famara cliffs from the boat to La Graciosa
La Graciosa and three of its volcanoes in the distance
Lanzarote and the Famara cliffs
On the ferry between Lanzarote and La Graciosa
La Graciosa lies before us in dazzling colours, yellow sand and prominent volcanic cones glowing in iridescent shades of ochre and red. Soon I spot a small cluster of simple white houses - Caleta del Sebo, our destination and the only year-round settlement on the island. Just over 700 inhabitants; a harbour, a school, a bakery, a church, a supermarket and a few bars and restaurants. There are neither paved roads nor trees on La Graciosa. Apart from a few solitary palms and cacti, the vegetation on the island is scant. There is no natural water source. The inhabitants make their living from fishing – and these days, more and more from tourism. Food and daily necessities are delivered by boat. There are no rental cars, only a few dusty Landrovers waiting at the harbour to take tourists to selected spots around the island. We turn down their kind offer. We had read about a 90-minute hike across the island to the Playa de las Conchas in our travel guide. So, after stocking up on water and some sandwiches at the small bakery near the harbour, we leave the small town with its sandy streets behind us.
Approaching Caleta del Sabo
Elderly men bathing in the sea
The unpaved streets of Caleta del Sabo
A local woman walking in Caleta del Sabo
Old 4x4 in Caleta del Sabo
The hike along the dusty track soon turns out to be less picturesque than we had imagined. As if to mock us, we are repeatedly overtaken by one of the Defenders, the smell of gasoline and clouds of dust trailing behind them. Sometimes a small group of people on rental bikes passes us, but we hardly encounter any other pedestrians. When we finally make it across the island, we take a break and eat our sandwiches at Playa Baja del Ganado. With new energy, we feel motivated to walk the rest of the track to Playa de las Conchas.
A farm on our way to Playa de las Conchas
The long and dusty road to Playa de las Conchas, Montaña Bermeja in the background
Details at Playa Baja del Ganado
Rock formations at Playa Baja del Ganado
When we arrive, the beach is dotted with a few other people lying in the sand and taking pictures by the shore, but the beach is so wide you can easily ignore them; opposite lies the Isla de Montaña Clara. The red Montaña Bermeja rises behind the beach. The sand is hot beneath our feet as we stumble towards the shore. The sea shimmers in otherwordly shades of blue, yet a red flag at the entrance to the beach keeps us from venturing into the water. I would have loved a refreshing swim. I am breathless from our walk, but also the view. This must be one of the most beautiful places I have ever been, I think to myself while I let the fine sand run through my fingers.
Arriving at Playa de las Conchas
The view of Isla de Montaña Clara at Playa de las Conchas
After an hour of rest, we find ourselves back on the path across the island. The same dusty trail, the same burning sun. At this point, I concentrate on walking; I keep my camera in the bag and hardly notice my surroundings. All I want is to be back in the village. When we finally return to Caleta del Sebo, my head is throbbing. Neither a cold Coke nor a swim in the sea – much calmer here than on the other side of the island – help restore me. So, instead of stopping for a beer in the beach bar and strolling through the village, we take the next boat back to Lanzarote. On the boat, I curse the author of the guidebook and my lack of judgement. But I am still grateful to have seen this beautiful place and to be able to tell about it. But I will urge everyone who listens that you shouldn't do a three-hour hike on La Graciosa; do hitch a ride to the beaches. It will also allow you to see more of this beautiful island in a day.
How to get to La Graciosa
There are two lines from Órzola on Lanzarote to Caleta del Sebo, Linea Romero and Biosfera Express. The boat ride takes 30 minutes. A round trip will cost around 28€ for adults. It includes parking in Órzola – look out for one of the parking spots with signs of the company you use.
How to get around on La Graciosa
We have established that I’d avoid hiking across the island again, and I’d definitely recommend renting a 4x4 taxi.
Where to Stay at La Graciosa
There are a few options for staying the night – or even longer. Pedro Barba is the other settlement on La Garciosa that consists of a selection of holiday homes, I found one of them for rent on Airbnb. There are also a few small B&Bs in Caleta del Sebo and a camping ground.
Food and Drink on La Graciosa
There are a few restaurants and bars on La Graciosa, but they are all located in Caleta del Sebo. Have a cold beer and snack at Cafeteria El Veril with your feet in the sand, and pick up some sandwiches for your day out and about at Panaderia Pasteleria Quela.
