Copenhagen City Guide
Impeccable design and architecture, a vibrant outdoor culture, topped off with amicable, cheerful people who are well dressed without trying too hard, good food and great coffee everywhere. It's easy to fall in love with Copenhagen. I've yet to meet anyone returning from the Danish capital without wanting to return immediately or move there. I felt the same after a solo trip to Copenhagen in April 2023. Find some places I discovered during the trip in this Copenhagen City Guide. I also added some bucket list items — yes, I desperately want to go back.
Copenhagen’s landmark, the Little Mermaid at Langelinie Pier. Together with Nyhaven, with its colourful houses, this is one of the most crowded and touristy spots in Copenhagen.
The royal guards outside Amalienborg, the official residence of the Danish royal family.
the basics
Where to Stay in Copenhagen
Villa Copenhagen, near the central station, occupies the city's former postal headquarters and comes with a heated rooftop pool. In the new district of Nordhavn, Audo Residence offers ten rooms designed by Norm Architects in collaboration with the design brand Audo Copenhagen. Hotel Sander, near the Royal Danish Theatre, is luxurious and inviting. Hotel Ottilia occupies two former brewery buildings in Carlsberg Byen, combining original features like the former grain silos with contemporary Scandinavian design. Lastly, the floating Hotel CPH LIVING offers rooms aboard a converted German barge for those seeking a more unconventional stay.
How to Get Around Copenhagen
It is easy to navigate Copenhagen, with its extensive network of bicycle lanes, efficient public transportation, and pedestrian-friendly streets. You can explore the city on foot or rent bikes to move from A to B. The metro, buses, and trains connect the city centre with outlying areas of Copenhagen. Which makes day trips to places like the Lousiana Museum of Modern Art in Humlebæk very convenient. Even Malmö is easily reachable by train via the Öresundbridge. I found the "DOT Billetter" app great for buying tickets on the go when I needed them, but you will also find ticket machines at train and metro stations.
Copenhagen Neighbourhoods
Indre By is the city's historic heart and home to iconic sights such as Nyhavn and Amalienborg and Copenhagen's main shopping street, Strøget. While it might feel like a vast open-air museum, it still holds a certain charm and offers quite a few good places to visit, like Kunsthal Charlottenborg or New Mags.
Vesterbro is a former working-class neighbourhood that plays a central role in Tove Ditlevsen's Copenhagen Trilogy – a really good book to take along on your trip to Copenhagen. Today, Vesterbro is a hip neighbourhood with many restaurants, bars and clubs around Enghave Plads, on Istedgade and in the Meatpacking District.
Frederiksberg, with its tree-lined boulevards and sidewalk cafes, is often likened to Paris. Many Scandinavian brands, from Gianni to Wood Wood, have shops here, making it a great spot for shopping. Frederiksberg Have is an extensive park including lakes, waterways and a colony of herons that is just perfect for a stroll or a summer picnic.
Nørrebro is a diverse neighbourhood with a vibrant food scene and is home to artisanal breweries and speciality coffee shops. Here, you can find several open spaces where Copenhageners like to hang out in the summer, like Assistens Cemetery, Superkilen Park and The Lakes.
Explore Copenhagen
Museums, Architecture, Botany & a Beach in and Around Copenhagen
Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek
Established in 1888 by Carl Jacobsen – the owner of Carlsberg brewery, Ny Carlsberg Glyptothek is home to more than 10'000 artworks. The museum's rich collection spans from antique sculptures to Danish Golden Age masterpieces and French Impressionism – including works by Rodin and Matisse. However, the Glyptotek's Winter Garden is the museum’s most striking feature. Also, don’t miss out on a visit to the rooftop for a panoramic view of Copenhagen and neighbouring Tivoli.
New Carlsberg Glyptothek
Dantes Plads 7
1556 Copenhagen
Botanical Garden of Copenhagen
The botanical garden is located in the heart of Copenhagen, and its Palm House is an architectural gem from the late 19th century. Inside, palm trees extend to the glass ceiling, contrasting with the Victorian ironwork encasing them. Steep iron staircases lead to a raised walkway, offering alternative views of the collection of exotic plants. Additional greenhouses surround the Palm House, most notably the butterfly house. If I lived in Copenhagen, this would be a place I'd visit regularly.
Botanical Garden
Gothersgade 128
1123 Copenhagen
Kunsthal Charlottenborg
Tucked away in a backyard just a short stride from the scenic Nyhavn, Kunsthal Charlottenborg is Copenhagen's epicentre for contemporary art. Founded in 1883, the institution has a rich heritage and positions itself at the cutting edge of the art scene, offering a platform for Danish and international artists like Fischli und Weiss, Yoko Ono or Wolfgang Tilmanns. Kunsthal Charlottenborg also hosts the annual exhibition of the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts' Schools of Visual Arts and an annual Spring Exhibition showcasing talents from the Nordic region and beyond.
Kunsthal Charlottenborg
Nyhavn 2
1051 Copenhagen
SMK – Statens Museum for Kunst
Denmark's premier art museum, the Statens Museum for Kunst, holds an impressive collection of European masterpieces from the 14th to the 20th century. I enjoyed the museum's extensive collection of Danish art – from the serene landscapes of the Danish Golden Age to expressions of contemporary Danish art. It's the perfect place to spend a rainy afternoon.
Statens Museum for Kunst
Sølvgade 48-50
1307 Copenhagen
Lousiana Museum of Modern Art
Located a short train ride outside of Copenhagen in Humlebæck, right on the shores of the Öresund, the Lousiana Museum of Modern Art is a must-visit! Here, art, architecture and the natural landscape become one. My favourite feature of Louisiana was the vast sculpture park featuring works by artists like Jean Arp and Henry Moore.
Louisiana Museum of Modern Art
Gl. Strandvej 13
3050 Humlebæk
Finn Juhl’S House
In Ordrup, another town outside of Copenhagen, Finn Juhl's House is a living museum showcasing the innovative approach of the Danish architect and designer. The house is part of the Ordrupgaard Museum, where you can find Danish and French art from the 19th and early 20th centuries. There is also a nice park to relax or have a picnic. I took interior pictures of Finn Juhl’s House while there. Have a look!
Ordrupgaard
Vilvordevej 110
2920 Charlottenlund
Bellevue Beach Klampenborg
The area around Bellevue Beach, located in Klampenborg, just north of Copenhagen, Denmark, is a great showcase of the works of Danish architect Arne Jacobsen. Designed in the 1930s, Bellevue Beach is characterised by minimalist and functional buildings. It is also an excellent place for a short walk along the beach. You can also walk to Skovshoved, where the architect designed a petrol station.
Bellevue Beach
Strandvejen 340
2930 Klampenborg
Museums & galleries on My Bucket List
Kunsthal Charlottenborg is part of the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts.
The seating area in the master bedroom of Finn Juhl’s House in Ordrup. Find more pictures from my visit in this blog post.
Among the most iconic features of Bellevue Beach are the blue and white lifeguard towers designed by Arne Jacobsen.
Coffee Culture in Copenhagen
Always Order a PAstry With Your Coffee
The best pastry from Brød.
Brød
Bageriet Brød quickly turned into a daily ritual for me. The Wienerbrød here is delicious and their sourdough Rye is impeccable. As it stays fresh for quite a while, it is a great souvenir to bring home from your trip. The bakery is located right on Enghave Plads, so I liked to pick up coffee and a pastry to sit down on one of the many benches and observe the daily rhythms of Vesterbro life.
Bageriet Brød
Enghave Pl. 7
1670 Copenhagen
Coffee Collective Carlsberg Byen
At the different branches of The Coffee Collective, they brew speciality coffee from beans sourced directly and ethically. The one in Carlsberg Byen, a new neighbourhood in development on the former grounds of the Carlsberg Brewery, is an airy shop with a minimalist flair. It's a great place to sit down with a book or meet with friends and enjoy some coffee and a pastry from Collective Bakery.
The Coffee Collective
Fadet 8
1799 Copenhagen
Hart Bageri
Founded by Richard Hard, an alumnus of the renowned Noma, some media outlets herald Hart Bageri as one of the world's premier bakeries. Subsequently, lines at their seven stores across Copenhagen can get long, but their baked goods are worth waiting for. While I cannot attest to any superlatives, the pastry I tried was delicious.
Hart Bageri Frederiksberg
Gammel Kongevej 109
1850 Frederiksberg
Andersen & Maillard
The Andersen & Maillard branch in Nørrebro welcomes you with the smell of fresh coffee, the golden, flaky croissants, and other mouth-watering pastries in the display case. The place also offers a cosy environment for work or reading a book.
Andersen & Maillard
Nørrebrogade 62
2200 Copenhagen
Food & Drink in Copenhagen
From Burgers and Beer to Whipped Butter on Rye
Gasoline Grill Værnedamsvej
There are several branches of Gasoline Grill in Copenhagen; the first one that opened is located in a former gas station, which gave the franchise its name. The branch on Værnedamsvej is a minimalist venue designed by Studio David Thulstrup—who also designed the interior at NOMA—with a long counter, an open kitchen, and a glass-walled meat grinding room. The burgers here are impeccable and taste very fresh. Also, the staff was super charming. All the ingredients are organic. Their sought-after burgers are only available until sold out to ensure zero waste.
Gasoline Grill Værnedamsvej
Værnedamsvej 2
1619 Copenhagen
CIRCOLO
Circolo in Fredriksberg offers Tuscan cuisine made with local ingredients from Denmark. The pasta is handmade, and the meat and seafood are grilled on charcoal. Patrons can order a menu or dine à la carte. It's also an excellent place to dine alone, as the bar offers seats with a direct view into the kitchen. It’s like a less stressful and more friendly live episode of "The Bear."
Circolo
Gl. Kongevej 74D
1850 Fredriksberg
La Neta
La Neta, an easy-going taqueria with two locations in Vesterbro and Nørrebro, serves street-style tacos with different fillings and other Mexican fare alongside craft beers from Mikkeller Brewery.
La Neta Vesterbro
Istedgade 88
1650 Copenhagen
Appolo Bar
Frederik Bille Brahe's Apollo Bar is in the courtyard outside Kunsthal Charlottenborg. Inside, you sit amongst plaster-cast statues and other artworks; outside, you can enjoy the beautiful courtyard. Dishes range from simple smoked salmon with dill and capers on the lunch menu to more elaborate fare like lion's mane steak or pumpkin fondue for dinner. Make sure you order some sourdough bread and whipped butter, too.
Apollo Bar
Nyhavn 2
1051 Copenhagen
studio x kitchen
A great option for breakfast or lunch, Studio X Kitchen near Kongens Have is all about food made from seasonal and local ingredients. Their most popular dish is the folded eggs, which can be ordered with different toppings and sides; I seriously enjoyed the ones with anchovies and pickles. Other items on the menu include porridge and homemade granola.
Studio X Kitchen
Dronningens Tværgade 52
1302 Copenhagen
BRUS
Founded by the people behind To Øl, a craft brewery from Copenhagen, BRUS is a brewery bar and restaurant in a former iron foundry and locomotive factory in Nørrebro. Various beers from the brand are brewed onsite and are offered on tap. Well-crafted dishes from BRUS Foodbar complement the beer selection. I found the beef tartare, the fried Padron peppers and the fermented fries delicious. A bottle shop offers cans and bottles from To Øl and guest breweries.
BRUS
Guldbergsgade 29
2200 Copenhagen
Enghave Plads 9
Right on Enghave Plads, this takeaway sells natural wine, beer on tap, cider, and snacks to pick up and enjoy while sitting in the square. I encountered Enghave Plads 9 on my first day in Copenhagen when I left the subway station and was greeted with happy faces enjoying beers in the sun.
Enghave Plads 9
Enghave Pl. 9
1670 Copenhagen
Mikkeller Bar Viktoriagade
This modest cellar bar is the site of the very first Mikkeller Bar and became the blueprint for multiple locations by the brand. The tap list focuses on Mikkeller beers, and the kitchen serves small dishes like cheese or sausages.
Mikkeller Bar
Viktoriagade 8 B-C
1655 Copenhagen
Copenhagen Restaurants on my Bucket List
Shopping in Copenhagen
Bring a Large Suitcase for all the Souvenirs
Hvornum on Gammel Kongevej.
Værnedamsvej and Tullinsgade
A micro-neighbourhood in the middle of Copenhagen, the Værenedamsvej and Tullinsgade offer speciality stores, cafés and wine bars. There seems to be an even more friendly and open atmosphere than in the rest of Copenhagen. Seek out the independent bookstore Thiemers Magasin and browse through Vila Vintage, Dora, or Blomsterskuret.
Værenedamsvej and Tullinsgade
1819 Fredriksberg
Dansk Made for Rooms
Danks Made for Rooms on Istedgade sells a carefully curated selection of designer furniture and objects, from kitchenware to shelving units. Be careful, you might wish for a bigger suitcase to bring everything back home.
Danks Made for Rooms
Istedgade 80
1650 Copenhagen
New Mags
New Mags is an iconic destination for coffee table books and magazines designed by Norm Copenhagen. The store is so beautiful I was tempted to move in.
New Mags
Ny Østergade 28
1101 Copenhagen
Gammel Kongevej
One of Copenhagen's longest streets, Gammel Kongevej offers many restaurants, cafés and boutiques. I also spotted several interesting vintage stores, like I Blame LULU and Paloma Vintage. There is also Hvornum, a most gorgeous and intriguing furniture shop.
Frama Studio Store
The studio store of the interior brand Frama is located in a 19th-century pharmacy, St. Paul's Apotek. The original fittings from the cabinets to the painted ceilings remain intact, making the store a destination in its own right. The store showcases a selection of the brand's designs, from furniture to homeware, and the brand's own self-care products named after the old pharmacy.
