One week in Mallorca

Some of the places we visited during a rather cloudy one week stay in Mallorca.

April and May were bleak here in Zurich, so the boyfriend and I decided to travel south to get some sun. Mallorca had been on our list of places to visit for a while. Little did we know at the time of booking that the weather on the island would be unseasonably grey and cold for mid-May. But, while we missed out on seeing those clear blue waters, least of all, went swimming in them, we still discovered quite a few places and activities that I thought I'd share.

We stayed close to Artà in the North-East of the island for most of the trip and spent a few more days in Valdemossa. I preferred the former, as it felt a lot less touristy. Subsequently, most of my recommendations are from this area.

Stay at Finca Son Gener

I am super grateful to the person who told us about Finca Son Gener, a charming boutique hotel close to Artà. It was the highlight of the trip. Everyone working there was extremely accommodating. The buildings down to the rooms and gardens were downright beautiful, and the premises were vast for the small number of guests. We were very grateful for their spa with a heated indoor pool, sauna and steambath, as they made the rather cold days more than bearable. They also have two beautiful outdoor pools and offer great breakfast and dinner. One evening we claimed one of the sofas next to the chimney with a bottle of wine and felt right at home.

Dinner at Es Racó d'Artà

Es Racó d'Artà is a wellness retreat located on a vast estate near Artà created by the same architect as Son Gener, in collaboration with his daughter and son. We only went here for a very delicious dinner, but the place is definitely on my list of places to stay during a future trip to Mallorca. The food and service were impeccable, and I am still kicking myself that we did forgo the tour of the premises they offered to us.

Parc Natural de la Península de Llevant

Only a short car ride from Son Gener, we found Parc Natural de la Penísula de Llevant, one of the island's national parks. Here went for a little hike across a beautiful pasture with grazing sheep and ocean views. We were lucky that day, as the sun did come out.

Within the national park, there is an old monastery, the Ermita de Betlem, a beautiful quaint place where we met a cat that had itself colour-coordinated to the stones of the church and a family of goats that roamed on the former crop areas that used to be cultivated by the monks.

Lunch at Ca na Toneta

On our way from Artà to Valdemossa, we stopped by Ca na Toneta in Caimari, a place I had bookmarked on Google Maps ages ago. It was absolutely worth the stop. They serve a set menu of delicious seasonal dishes made with local ingredients – many of them produced by the family of the sisters who run the place. Everything is served on beautiful ceramics, as well. We opted for the wine flight and got introduced to a selection of delicious wines from the island and the Mediterranean region. There is also a small store next door to the restaurant where you can buy wine, olive oil and other goods. Perfect for souvenir shopping!

Fundació Miró Mallorca

Joan Miró's Sert Studio in Palma was another place I had longed to see for quite a while now. It's rather ubiquitous on Instagram – I am probably not the only one who loves taking a peek into artists' studios.

While I had seen pictures from and read about Sert Studio, named after its architect, Josep Lluís Sert, I wasn’t aware before our visit that there was a second studio, Son Boter, and an exhibition space at Fundació Miró Mallorca. Currently, they host an insightful exhibition about the works Miró produced at Son Boter and how the studio influenced his art.

Lunch at Sa Placeta, Palma

Before our flight home, we went for a stroll around Palma. It was full of tourists. So, while I can imagine that the city feels very different when the day trippers have returned to their cruise ships and resorts, I did not really warm to it. We did, however, find a nice restaurant amidst the tourist traps, Sa Placeta. Here we had the most delicious lamb and other great dishes we shared between the two of us. The staff was great, too – if only a bit flustered by other patrons who did not understand the concept of the place and would have preferred to eat burgers and fries.

You can find all places I mentioned on this list on Google Maps, as well.

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